We are now heading toward our last stop in Osaka. On the way, we stopped briefly in Nara – the first capital of Japan. Nara has an area called “dear park”, where approx. 1,200 dear are running loosely (no gates are fences are containing them to the area and it seems to be close to downtown). They are considered a gift of god.
Our group went to a Kimono shop where we did get dressed in traditional kimonos. We did receive 3 layers of clothing and it took approx. 25 minutes to get dressed (each of us was helped by an assistant). A kimono apparently has approx. 15 layers when it is for official functions - I can't imagine how you can walk and work in them. Nevertheless, it was fun wearing them during our lunch - they are sure good for your posture...
The pottery that we visited later in the day has an old kiln (approx. 400 yrs old) that they fire up about twice a year. It takes approx. 50 hours for the kiln to heat to the required temperature of 1300 degrees Celsius. The potters only use it for their master pieces - any "mass production" pottery is burned in their gas heated kilns (this takes approx. 6-8 hours). While the traditional kiln holds approx. 300 pieces, the gas kiln holds about 200 pieces. But because they are gas fired, they are much more efficient for the potters to use.
Before they turn on the ancient kiln, they turn to the shrine located in front of it. The fire that they use to lighten the flame comes from this shrine. Fire and clay are 'holy' for them and they pray that their work turns out perfectly.
On the way to the pottery was also the oldest teashop in Japan (Tsuen). It started in the 12th century, when the bridge keeper started serving tea to travelers. This became so popular that the place became known as a teahouse.
Marukyu Koyamuen Tea Company
The last stop of today was at Marukyu Koyamuen tea company. This company is a producer and wholesaler for Sencha, Gyokuro, and Matcha (their specialty is Matcha). The region of Uji is known for its pure water, mild climate and rich soild – all of these components ensure a quality green tea. Uji was the first area to produce Matcha, which spread throughout Japan from here. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take any pictures.
Matcha Production
The tea trees are covered around mid April. There are a couple of different cover styles used. One is the komo (reeds); this company still uses Komo covered with straw for their high end Matchas. The other method is a vinyl cover. The difference is that vinyl filters about 80% of sunlight, and Komo with straw filters about 95%. The synthetic fabric is more popular since it is easier to use. The picking starts in early May, when the leaves developed a brilliant colour and fragrance. The farmers are the ones that decide which tea leaves should be used for the best quality matcha.
The tea for Matcha is still handpicked and the picking takes only place once a year. Traditionally, they use 5 leaves and a bud for Matcha.
After picking, the first step is to run the tea leaves through a steamer. This stops the oxidation process. As a next step, the leaves go through the blow dryer, which removes surfaced water. It is interesting to know that in ancient times, this used to be done by hand with a little fan. The next step leads through the drying oven. By now, the leaves have lost approx. 20% of their original weight. In the old times, this process used to be done by hand and took approx. 4-5 hours (we have seen this in front of the tea market in Shizuoka). Unless the company has orders for the final tea products, the tea is stored until final processing in large refrigerators. The temperature and humidity levels of the storage area are computer controlled.
Once an order has been received, the separation of the leaves starts and the leaves continue their final processing steps. First, they are chopped to uniform size. Then they go through a wind channel to separate the stems and the leaves are sifted for uniformity. The next step utilizes static electricity to remove straw and other non-tea related items. The unit also identifies the colour of the leaves. The leaves weigh approx. 10% of their original weight. The separation used to be manually as well, by means of chopsticks. This method is still used today for the highest quality Matcha that the company produces.
Next, the tea tasters sample the teas in a large room with light from northern direction. This ensures tea tasting under ideal conditions (natural sunlight). The tea tasters decide which combination of teas will produce the best and most consistent results. The company currently occupies 4 tea tasters. They require 10 years of experience in this field. Turnover rate is non-existent (according to the company). This could maybe be explained with a loss of face & trust if someone was to leave the company to work for someone else. After all, this is a craft and they know the best kept secret in the tea company. Marukyu Tea company has an internal training program for their employees. They also participate in “tea taster” competitions which are held regionally and nationally.
Once the teas have been blended, they are processed in granite mills. These mills are maintained regularly by the manufacturer to ensure best results in the Matcha production. They rotate at around 50 rounds per minute, in total darkness (light is not switched on). The environment of the chamber is also strictly controlled (20 degrees Celsius, 40% humidity and no light). The mill rotates counterclockwise. The mill stones have cuts in 45 degree angles, all around, in 8 groups. The edge of the stone is not cut. By the end of the final process the tea leaves have been ground to approx. 5-10 micrometers in size. Matcha.
Tomorrow starts our last day in Japan. I can't believe how quickly time can go by...


